Aura of India: Uttarakhand by District: Haridwar, Char Dham, Nainital, Corbett

The Alaknanda river running through a Himalayan valley

Photo: Bhavabhuthi, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

The Alaknanda river in the Garhwal hills of Uttarakhand, green and fast, on an autumn afternoon.

Uttarakhand is called Devbhumi, the land of the gods. The Ganges and the Yamuna both begin here, in its glaciers.

Garhwal and Kumaon

Uttarakhand became a state in 2000 and has thirteen districts in two regions. Garhwal, in the west, includes Dehradun, Haridwar, Tehri Garhwal, Uttarkashi, Chamoli, Rudraprayag and Pauri Garhwal. Kumaon, in the east, includes Nainital, Almora, Pithoragarh, Bageshwar, Champawat and Udham Singh Nagar. Dehradun is the capital, and Gairsain, in the hills, is the summer capital.

The rivers and the pilgrimages

At Haridwar, the Ganges leaves the mountains, and every evening thousands gather at Har Ki Pauri for the Ganga aarti, when lamps are floated on the river. Upstream, Rishikesh is a town of ashrams, yoga schools and footbridges over the river. Higher still, the Char Dham pilgrimage visits four shrines: Yamunotri and Gangotri in Uttarkashi, Kedarnath in Rudraprayag, and Badrinath in Chamoli. They are open only from about April or May to October or November.

Lakes, forests and flowers

In Kumaon, Nainital is a hill town around a lake, and Almora and Munsiyari look out on the Himalaya. Jim Corbett National Park, India's first, established in 1936, protects tigers in the foothills. In Chamoli, the Valley of Flowers bursts into bloom in the monsoon and, together with Nanda Devi National Park, is a World Heritage Site.

Getting around

Dehradun has the main airport, and Pantnagar serves Kumaon. Trains reach Dehradun, Haridwar and Kathgodam, below Nainital. The pilgrim roads up the Garhwal valleys are long, and between July and September landslides can shut them for days. Plan for spring and early summer, or for the clear weeks after the rains in autumn; the Char Dham shrines are busiest in May and June.

Two regions, two trips

Garhwal is the pilgrims' side. A first trip runs from Dehradun or Haridwar to Rishikesh, then up the valleys: Uttarkashi for Yamunotri and Gangotri, Rudraprayag for Kedarnath, Chamoli for Badrinath and the Valley of Flowers. The full Char Dham circuit by road takes well over a week.

Kumaon is gentler. From Kathgodam, the railhead, roads climb to Nainital, then on to Almora, Kausani in Bageshwar and Munsiyari in Pithoragarh. Corbett lies at the foot of the hills, with Ramnagar as its base. A week covers Nainital, Almora and Corbett without long drives. The Uttarakhand guide covers food and festivals.

Registration and border permits

Every Char Dham and Hemkund Sahib pilgrim must register, with their vehicle, on the state's free portal, registrationandtouristcare.uk.gov.in, or the Tourist Care Uttarakhand app, and verify at each shrine. Carry the registration letter with its QR code and a photo ID, and collect a darshan slot token at the shrine.

Areas near the Tibet border need an Inner Line Permit. For Adi Kailash and Om Parvat, beyond Dharchula towards Gunji, Kuti and Jyolingkong, apply on the Pithoragarh district's ILP portal with a medical certificate and an affidavit; approval usually takes one to two days. The Nelong valley, above Gangotri, needs a permit from the Uttarkashi district administration. Foreign visitors need a Protected Area Permit for some border areas.

Districts to know

Haridwar: the evening aarti at Har Ki Pauri.
Dehradun: the capital, Mussoorie above it, and Rishikesh nearby.
Uttarkashi: Yamunotri and Gangotri.
Rudraprayag: Kedarnath.
Chamoli: Badrinath and the Valley of Flowers.
Nainital: the lake town and Jim Corbett National Park.
Pithoragarh: Munsiyari and the high peaks.

In Uttarakhand, every river you cross is on its way to somewhere sacred.

Plan your visit

Best season	Spring to early summer (March to June) and autumn (September to November). In July, August and September, landslides can block the roads to Garhwal's shrines and Kumaon's hill towns. The Char Dham shrines open in late April or May and close around October or November.
How to reach	Fly to Dehradun (Jolly Grant) for Garhwal or Pantnagar for Kumaon. Trains reach Dehradun, Haridwar, Rishikesh and Kathgodam.
Getting around	State buses and shared jeeps on the main routes; a hired car with a hill driver for the Char Dham. Book Kedarnath helicopter seats only through official channels.
Where to stay	Haridwar near Har Ki Pauri; Rishikesh at Tapovan or Muni ki Reti; Mallital or Tallital in Nainital; Ramnagar for Corbett; Uttarkashi, Guptkashi and Jyotirmath (Joshimath) on the pilgrim roads.
How long to spend	A week for Haridwar, Rishikesh and Mussoorie, or for Kumaon; ten days or more for the Char Dham.
Permits	Char Dham and Hemkund Sahib: free, compulsory registration. Inner Line Permits for border areas such as Adi Kailash, Om Parvat and Nelong. Foreign visitors: Protected Area Permit for some border areas; check before you go.

Open Haridwar, Uttarakhand in Google Maps

Questions people ask

Is registration compulsory for the Char Dham Yatra?

Yes. Every pilgrim must register, with their vehicle, on registrationandtouristcare.uk.gov.in or the Tourist Care Uttarakhand app. It is free, and pilgrims are verified at each shrine.

When do the Char Dham temples open?

In late April or May, and they close around October or November. In 2026 Yamunotri and Gangotri opened on 19 April, Kedarnath on 22 April and Badrinath on 23 April.

How many districts does Uttarakhand have?

Thirteen: seven in Garhwal and six in Kumaon. The number has not changed since the state was formed in 2000.

Do I need a permit for Adi Kailash and Om Parvat?

Yes. An Inner Line Permit is mandatory beyond Dharchula towards Gunji, Kuti and Jyolingkong. Apply on the Pithoragarh district ILP portal; approval usually takes 24 to 48 hours.

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Uttarakhand by District: Haridwar, Char Dham, Nainital, Corbett