Food

Diwali Sweets Counter: Laddoos, Kaju Katli and How to Buy

Trays of laddoos and kaju katli at a mithai counter

Photo: Anushka10patel, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

A mithai counter on Diwali morning, trays already half empty by nine.

The festival morning is measured in boxes of laddoo and kaju katli, not in another essay about lamps.

Syrian Christian Kitchen, Kottayam: Stew, Appam, Table

Lacy Kerala appams ready for a Syrian Christian table

Photo: Shobha Elizabeth John, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

A Syrian Christian lunch table in Kottayam, mid-morning light through a kitchen window.

The meal is not a boat ride; it is stew, appam and a community table that has held for centuries.

Kolhapur Food: Tambda and Pandhra Rassa Plate

A Kolhapuri thali with tambda and pandhra rassa

Photo: Advaitj11, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

A Kolhapur lunch table with tambda and pandhra rassa, early afternoon.

In Kolhapur the plate is judged by two gravies: one red, one white, both meant for bread and appetite.

Gujarati Thali in Ahmedabad: How It Is Served

A Gujarati thali with many small bowls on a steel plate

Photo: Vis M, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

A Gujarati thali laid on a steel plate in an Ahmedabad lunch room.

A Gujarati thali is not one dish; it is a sequence the kitchen keeps refilling until you stop it.

Sarafa Bazaar, Indore: Night Food After the Shops Shut

Food stalls open on Sarafa Bazaar in Indore at night

Photo: आर्या जोशी, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

Sarafa Bazaar, Indore, after the jewellery shutters come down and the burners come up.

By day Sarafa sells gold. By night the same stones hold a second trade: vegetarian street food until the small hours.

Filter Coffee in Coimbatore: Degree Coffee and Breakfast

A steel tumbler and davara of filter coffee on a Coimbatore breakfast table

Photo: Vallari.a, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

A tiffin room in Coimbatore, Kongu Nadu, just after seven on a working morning.

In Coimbatore the day does not begin with a speech. It begins with a steel tumbler of filter coffee.

Chettinad Food in Karaikudi: Pepper Chicken, Spices, What to Eat

Snacks being shaped by hand beside steel pots in a Karaikudi kitchen

Photo: Rainer Halama, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

A kitchen in the Chettinad country near Karaikudi, Tamil Nadu, in the hour before lunch.

In Chettinad the heat should have a name: black pepper, roasted that morning and ground for one pot.

Andhra Meals on a Banana Leaf: Gongura, Podi and How to Eat

An Andhra vegetarian meal laid out on a banana leaf

Photo: United Hotel Management Academy, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

Lunchtime in an Andhra mess, a plain eating house that serves set meals, in Vijayawada or Guntur.

Rice sits in the middle of the leaf, and everything around it is there to be mixed in, by hand.

Mysore Masala Dosa in Mysuru: What It Is and Where to Eat It

A masala dosa on a banana leaf with sambar and two chutneys

Photo: OdetomyLife, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

A tiffin room in old Mysuru, early on a weekday morning.

A Mysuru dosa is crisp at the edge, soft at the fold, and gone before it cools.

Dalma of Odisha: How It’s Cooked and Where to Eat It

Dalma, rice, curd and a vegetable side on a steel plate

Photo: SoumyaSarangi, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

An everyday lunch in Odisha, served on a steel plate.

Dal and vegetables, cooked together until they agree.

Sandesh in Kolkata: What It Is and Where to Eat It

A tray of pale sandesh sweets topped with pistachio

Photo: Billjones94, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

An old sweet shop in north Kolkata, late afternoon.

It should taste of milk first and sugar second.

Dhokla and Chaas: Gujarat’s Steamed Snack and Spiced Buttermilk

Squares of yellow dhokla topped with grated coconut

Photo: Biswarup Ganguly, CC BY 3.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

A farsan shop in Ahmedabad, mid-morning.

It should look light and taste a little sour.

Hyderabadi Biryani: How It Is Cooked, Served and Ordered

Chicken biryani in a copper handi with a bowl of raita

Photo: Dheerajk88, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

A biryani house in Hyderabad, at lunch.

It arrives sealed. The lid comes off at the table.

Idli and Filter Coffee: How to Eat a Tamil Breakfast

Idli with sambar and coconut chutney on a banana leaf

Photo: Sutapa Pal, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped), via Wikimedia Commons

A tiffin room in Tamil Nadu, just after seven in the morning.

Nothing on the leaf is there for show.